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Number 112 | August 16, 2002
© 2002 Designer Blinds

Back To Skew...

Additional Ways To Adjust For Skew On 
Silhouette^® and Nantucket^™ Window Shadings!  

It isn't unusual for Silhouette or Nantucket window shadings to require adjustments for a skewed bottom rail.  Most of the time, the adjustment can be made quickly and easily with a penny or a dime as the only tool you really need. These standard techniques are covered in a previous tip Go there.  But what happens when you have that shading that is almost adjusted, but still needs a little more?  Here are some additional techniques you can use. 

Check To See If It's On The Level
First thing to do after you've tried the standard procedure is determine whether the headrail is installed in a level position.  A slight difference at the top can have a major impact on the way the fabric is positioned in the window.  In longer windows, the effect of an out of level headrail will be most noticeable. If you find that the shading is installed out of level, use washers to compensate and bring the brackets into alignment.  

Using proper measuring techniques may keep you from running into this sort of trouble.  Keep in mind, though, the usual method of measuring height in three places will not necessarily tell you whether the window is level with the world.  It may tell you that the top of the window is parallel to the bottom of the window, but this will also happen when both the top and bottom are skewed in the same direction.  Comparing diagonal measurements of the window will give you a better judgment of whether the window is square and a carpenter's level will give you a better estimation of whether the top of the window is level.  The rule of thumb for Silhouette and Nantucket window shadings is that if the window is more than a quarter-inch off-level or out of square, you should urge the use of an outside mount shading.

Adjustments To The Limit Stops
Another way to make further adjustments to shades that skew is to adjust the position of the limit stops.  The techniques to use are slightly different, depending on the size of the shading to be adjusted.

Adjustment For  Shadings UNDER 36" Wide
If the shading is under 36 inches in width, it will have two limit stops located close to each other near the center of the shading.  Gently lift up on one of the limit stops and slide it one to two inches toward the side of the shading where the fabric is gathering.  Move the other limit stop the same distance in the same direction.  Operate the shading all the way to the bottom position with the vanes open and lift slowly to inspect.  If the shade is still skewing, repeat the process.  The limit stops can be moved with the shading in place, there is no need to remove it from the window to adjust them.  Be careful not to lift the back part of the stops too high in order to keep the shading operating properly.

Adjustment For  Shadings OVER 36" Wide
If the shading is over 36 inches in width, it will have two limit stops.  Each should be about 4 inches from each end of the headrail.  There are always two limit stops, wider shades do not require additional limits.  Start with the limit stop at opposite end of where the fabric is gathering.  Gently lift up on one of the limit stops and slide it one to two inches toward the side of the shading where the fabric is gathering.   Move it toward the side where the fabric is gathering in increments of about one inch.  Operate the shading all the way to the bottom position with the vanes open and lift slowly to inspect.  If the shading is still skewing, repeat the process.  Repeat the process if necessary, always using the limit at the opposite end of the gathered fabric.

Take The Cutoff! 
If you have adjusted the shading and moved the skewing weight all the way to the end and it still is skewing, cutting the bottom weight is another option.  The skewing is affected by a combination of weight and balance, rather than just purely weight.  

To cut the rail, take the shading out of the window with the fabric unrolled by about 6 inches.  With the bottom weight facing up, remove the end cap, twist out the weight lock and slide the weight out.  Cut the weight with a hack saw in small increments of one to two inches. The bottom rail should not be cut to less than 2/3 of its original width.

So Why Do I Have To Adjust Them At All?

We often get asked why adjustments have to be made to Silhouette or Nantucket Shadings.  The fact is that when a Nantucket shading is made in our facility, or when a Silhouette shading is made by Hunter Douglas, it is designed to fit perfectly within the rectangular measurements provided.  Trouble is that in the real world a truly perfect rectangular window is highly unusual.  Even if a window is installed as a perfect rectangle by the builder it can be distorted by structural settling and other factors.  Dealers and installers who take the time to understand how to do the adjustments that allow these products to function in imperfect windows, give themselves a big advantage with their customers.  They are able to communicate why these custom products are not good candidates for the do-it-yourself-and-save-a-buck approach and why professional measuring and installation services are needed.